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  • Black Diamond - ATC Guide -

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  • Black Diamond - ATC Guide -

Black Diamond ATC Guide

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5596

96 Reviews

Details

Utility without those unnecessary bells and whistles.

How do you make the most popular belay device in the world even better? You give it an extra loop that lets you belay your second directly from the anchor, with auto-locking capability, and then you machine out every last gram of unneeded material and call it the Black Diamond ATC Guide. Loved by trad climbers, ice climbers, and alpinists alike, this belay device lets you belay two following climbers while you tie your shoes and eat a sandwich, without any risk to anyone's life. Get yourself an ATC Guide, and go climb something that gets you a few pitches off the ground. By the time you're back at the car, you'll wonder how you ever got by without it.

  • Works as an auto-locking device when you're belaying the second directly off the anchor
  • Can be used to belay two following climbers at the same time
  • Secondary loop lets you get the leverage needed to release and lower a fallen second
  • Deep V-notches make it easier to hold big lead falls
  • CNC-machined to eliminate every unneeded speck of weight
  • Works on ropes from a tiny 7.7mm up to a burly 11mm
  • Climbing Magazine Editor's Choice Award
  • Item #BLD1265

Tech Specs

Material
anodized aluminum
Auto Locking
yes, when belaying from above
Rope Diameter
(single ropes) 9 - 11 mm, (half and twin ropes) 7 - 11 mm
Claimed Weight
88 g
Recommended Use
belaying, rappelling
Manufacturer Warranty
1 year

Tech Specs

  • Reviews
  • Q & A

What do you think about this product?

Have questions about this product?

Best belay device.

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This belay device is truly THE best. It's super versatile, really light and easy to use. I personally believe it is important to learn how to belay on an ATC before any other device. It forces your belay to pay more attention and after getting used to it, the simplicity of the device is what makes it so great.

Can't go wrong with this

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

Thus far I have only used it in the gym, but as expected no problems, the rope feeds effortlessly and when my partner falls the brake stops the rope well.
I purchased the platinum colorway and I look the look and the feel of the metal. very sleek

As Advertised

  • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

I've used this for belaying at the gym and it does so extremely well. The beauty is in its simplicity...it's so easy to use/extremely intuitive. Construction seems bomber - I think I'll have it for a long time. Can't wait to try rappelling with it, I'm sure it will be as advertised. Can't go wrong with the ATC!

Does it's job very well

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

This ATC is really awesome. Black Diamond consistently makes great products and this is another one of them. Awesome for repelling, multipitch climbs and belaying in general.

Gets the job done!

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

It isn't the lightest, but the couple of extra grams this one carries over its competitors makes it feel more substantial and robust. Makes belaying my follower a breeze.

My favorite

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

When I recommend a belay device, it's always this one. It's so versatile and it's what I bring on multipitch climbs. It's able to lead belay, autoblock top belay (which makes rope management so easy), rappel, and more. This is where it's at!

You'll be happy you did

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have bought this for myself, my boyfriend and as a gift for a friend to get them into climbing. This thing is a great go to for any belay situation you'll be in. You'll want this piece to start so as you get better at climbing, you can continue to use it and not long for a belay device that will allow you to do more, whether it be multi pitch climbs or belaying 2 people. Yes, you can belay 2 people with this. Go with this and don't look back!

Clutch

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

When I first started climbing I asked for a different belay device for Christmas not thinking I would ever do a multi-pitch climb. Don't make that mistake! After buying the ATC Guide I practically threw out that other piece. This is a real workhorse and does everything you need really well. Even now that I have a Grigri (which is also awesome) I go back to my ATC Guide for all my multi-pitch adventures. The auto locking feature for top down belays is so clutch! Not to mention belaying up 2 climbers quickly and easily. The friction is Goldilocks! Not too fast, not too slow, just right! Love this thing and will use it for years to come!

Must have

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I've been using this belay device for years, and although the climber/hand graphic guides are long gone (sorry newbies using it) - it is still in great shape. A must when you're on multi-pitch routes, and makes it simple and easy to belay 2 up to the anchor.

For single rappels (it happens sometimes), I like having the extra friction... even if just for peace of mind.

Thanks Black Diamond, this is a real winner! Also, I'm excited that my next one can come in other colors, too!

The Coca Cola of belay devices

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Solidly built. Does everything you could ask of it. Has idiot-resistant (nothing is idiot proof) graphics to aid with use. Sure, there are plenty of other belay devices that will accomplish the same things (top rope belay, lead belay, belay from above, lower, rappel, etc), but I can't find any reason to switch from my trusty ATC Guide. I'm by no means a Black Diamond fanboy, either...I probably have a a 2:1 ratio of Petzl to Black Diamond gear in my kit.

I don't know that the extra friction in the ATC really matters that much, but I like knowing it's there when using skinny ropes.

Hi is there any difference in performance...

Hi is there any difference in performance of this new version of ATC Guide? Any potential downsides in comparison with the old one? Or is it just little lighter and thats all? I only see that they have enlarged the auto-block release hole to accept a small carabiner which is kinda nice.

Best Answer

It's pretty much just the weight difference, and the carabiner hole you pointed out. The dimensions are the same so it'll feed exactly the same, and I imagine it's not quite as strong with the removed material in the sides. That said, I had a buddy that worked at BD's QC department breaking gear, and the last one had a test strength of a BILLION kN [citation needed], so this is still stronger than any of the 'biners that BD makes. Other than that it's just lighter. And prettier.