Black Diamond ATC Guide - 2007 BCS

An improvement on the standard ATC, but also requires a bit of thinking. I belayed two following climbers with this the other day which was pretty cool, but something I seldom do, but I could see how it would be very useful for guiding, which is perhaps why it is called the "ATC Guide." To set it up for two followers requires that it is hung from the anchors (not your harness) and it needs to be at an appropriate height, or it is difficult to feed. Standing on a ledge with the ATC at chest level is ideal. If it is lower or higher, it can be difficult to feed. On my first belay I accidentally fed the rope in backwards and although it still worked, it was obviously hard to feed in/out rope (the notches grab). I got it right on the second belay and the beauty of the device became apparent - you can belay two climbers on two different diameter ropes and lock either one off while still reeling in the other. Pretty cool. For belaying a leader, you need to change it over from the anchors to your harness like a regular belay device and of course, you should only be belaying one leader at a time.

The ATC Guide also works well for rappelling with different sized ropes.

The beauty of this device is that you can almost climb as fast with three people as with two because both followers can come up at the same time.

As a climber and guide, there are always one of these on my harness...but a word of caution. PLEASE make sure you know how to use it properly for belaying off of the anchor! Too many times I have seen people set these up incorrectly. Take the time and learn how to use this device properly. This goes for lowering off the anchor as well. Take your time and be safe!

I love this device. Makes raps down thin, icy ropes a lot less sketchy . The ability to clip directly into the anchor and belay two ropes with a self-locking system is amazing for alpine and multi-pitch climbing. A little on the heavy side but worth every ounce. I don't really mind this but this device is quite slow while rapping on thick (10mm+) cords.

This is a wonderful belay device. It provides friction when rappelling or belaying on skinny ropes, yet it is not too narrow so that you have to work too hard when using it in guide mode (thus keeping my tendinitis at bay). However, I am waiting for BD to come out with a device just like this for super skinny ropes. For example, today, I was rapelling into a ski line in Chamonix, and would have appreciated a "mini" Guide ATC to use with my 6mm line.

Upgrading to the ATC guide is far more convenient than my previous method of redirecting a hip belay on a standard ATC through the anchor master-point while girth hitched to a double-length sling clipped to the top shelf. The only drawback to belaying directly off of the anchor is the loss of a dynamic belay afforded by the other method, but I still think that overall it is far safer, especially because of the autolock (my second is still safe if the party above me kicks off a loose rock and takes me out of commission while I'm belaying her.) Lowering is a bit jerky, especially when you first start. Make sure to keep your hand on the brake strand when lowering to maintain control of the speed. For even better control you have to rig up a tricky little redirect which attaches the lowering hole to your harness, allowing you to control it with your body weight (be sure to add a prussic backup if using this method). Doing so isn't usually necessary in normal climbing; I would only rig such a system in a rescue scenario. The ATC Guide also allows you to safely belay two seconds at the same time, so that a party of three can climb as fast as a party of two (or a party of four as well; leader ascends, belays two seconding climbers, than begins to lead the next pitch as one second belays him from below and the other belays the fourth climber from above). I have no betta as to how this device compares with competitors such as the Petzl Reverso 3. I've heard that this works better with beefier cords and the Petzl works better with thin ones, but I have no personal experience to back that up. My main reason for buying the BD instead of the Petzl was that, with the addition of the grippy teeth (which I almost never use for standard belaying and repelling on my 10.3 rope) and the guide functions, this device looks and handles exactly the same as my trusty old ATC, giving it a nice feeling of familiarity.

Definitely my favorite device with which to belay. The ATC-XP is good, but the teeth are simply too much for the skinny people I usually belay (plus switching it around just seems a little strange to me), but the ATC guide has just enough bite to catch and lower nicely. In addition, the ability to guide people with it in a top-belay format adds a lot to this. I love the auto-locking feature with an additional biner. Awesome stuff from BD as usual... and I even bought my g/f one... hence I trust her just a bit more now on big whippers.

This thing should be on every climbers rack do to its versatiliy, O and its cheaper than the reverso.It can belay the leader as good as any tube style device on the market. It can make smooth rappels even with a large pack on. It can belay the second in guide mode which is self locking. It can even function as a crude ratchet in a hauling or rescue scenario. In addition all climbers who do multipitch should have a device like this because belaying the second directly off the anchor is safer 95% of the time compared to redirecting the belay(pulley effect).

I bought this belay simply because of it's versatility compared with the the ATC belays. I've used this belay once and I love it! The stopping power when rappin' down with both halves of the rope going thru is just ridiculous.

-It feeds the rope well.
-It built stout, a bit heavy for the size but its solid
-it belays a second from a upper anchor very well,
-its a bit grabby while lowering someone but it grabs a fall very well.
-The little hole for releasing a un-climbable second could be better
designed.
-The notched side is a bit much for rappeling it tend to grab the rop, I turn it around to smooth out the decent,
this is one of the most versitle and usefull devices out there I really glad I got one.

This ATC is the bomb of ATCs. It's light, small enough, feels durable and safe. All in one.

I love my ATC and this is basically a souped up ATC. For my typical weekend cragging, I still use my old ATC...it does the trick and is actually considerably lighter. But, I can't wait to fire this baby up on some multi-pitches. If you know you'll never progress past sportclimbing or top-roping, I would recommend going with the lighter, old-fashioned ATC.

After using this a fair amount, I wanted to add that the "v" notches do make a big difference with new, stiff, slippery, or small-diameter ropes. While the ATC Guide may not be for everyone, I would recommend looking the ATC Guide or the ATC-XP as a primary belay device. The extra friction does inspire a little more confidence than the old ATC in certain conditions.

There isn't really a belay/rappel situation where this does not shine, the multitude of configurations allows for anything you might need.

Its great for pretty much everything - rapping, belaying, belaying from the top. But it is a pain to use with ropes above 10.1 or so...especially when belaying a leader! Other than that, it holds up well, doesn't get too hot on the down and sets up pretty simply for the top belays.

If you are just starting to learn top rope or are into multi-pitich glacier climbing this ATC has something to offer. No matter where you are in your climbing carrer the black diamond ATC guide has what your looking for. Allowing for up to 11mm rope, this ATC is compatible with just about any rope you may encounter. For beginners this is the one for you because it gives you the capability to grow without having to run out and buy another ATC down the road. For veterans this ATC's guide function is a dream come true. Overall I highly recommend these piece of equipment.

Nice design, works just like the reverso3 but way beefier and the eye that the anchor beiner goes through is 90* to the reverso3. Wich is nice depending how your anchor is set up. If your going light weight than the reverse is nice. the atc guide super smooth with a 10.5 mm rope, belaying, raping, and topping a second. It a well thought out design. I recommend this any time.

So my standard issue BD ATC took a nasty 37m fall... Though there were no signs of carnage, it's not something you should take a chance with, especially when they don't cost very much! So since I had to buy a new one there is really only one choice, this one. I plan on getting into multipitch so it was a no-brainer. So many features, so many options. If you have to buy a new one, you gotta buy this one.

this is an amazingly versatile piece of gear. the teeth on one side are so useful for alpine and ice climbing allowing you to safely run thin alpine ropes, the fact that you can belay off anchor with a self locking device is so helpful in the bigwall climbing world. and as for me ill avoid dragging a gri gri up a long pitch any time i can. and you can repell with it! recomended.

This would be the loaded edition of the ATC. I still prefer the ATC for simple and quick rappels as I feel it feeds rope quicker than this and the XP. However, there is no arguing that this device has all of the bells and whistles. The extra friction can be nice when belaying for heavier climbers or teaching someone new how to rappel for the first time (same as the XP). I probably won't use any of the other features that the Guide has any time soon, but I got the thing at a song and I cannot complain!

Figured I should upgrade from my first ATC when I dropped it off a 70-foot wall... so this was the answer. Wanted the top-rope belay capability, (my climbing buddy is about 70lbs lighter than I am, so it makes life easier for him that way). It's heavier than the reverso3, but in a piece of gear this small is it worth 30% more money for tiny weight savings? Your choice, but I love this ATC.

I'm a huge fan of direct belaying when I'm on multipitch routes. When operated correctly, the ATC-G is an awesome way to get your second up the crag.

Incredible functionality. Ability to hold resting partners more easily while on belay. The auto camming feature while belaying a follower from above is awesome, and also can use the non teethed side to rap off of for easier and less jerky rappelling

This belay device is on of the best devices i've purchased. Love the versatility and its use for multi-pitch. Definitely needs to be part of every climber's arsenal

Can't imagine to do a multi pitch climb without ATC, belaying is so easy (especially for the leader).

Great belay device. I've used this a lot and a few others, and this one stands above the rest. If you're looking for a controlled belay this is what you want, I was tired of the jerky feel of lesser devices and wanted something I could control the belay with and this is exactly it and then some. Lots of features, great value, get one!

This device is great, but when ur leading, it can get a bit difficult to pull slack with a wide/fuzzy rope, but it is surely worth it. on the gym ropes, u can just give up, but its still great.

takes a little time to properly get use to using this thing. you should know how to use this thing before you take it out. works like a dream after it is set up. great for belaying off an anchor. always comes with me when i am lead climbing !

I love this piece. The holding power is great and smooth feeding to top it off. I also love the "guide mode" it works well.

I own and/or have used almost every belay/repel device available. Everything from 8s, stich-plates, Kong Gi Gi, Grigris, Cinches, Jaws, B52s, almost every incarnation of ATCs and Reversos, etc. If I was forced to pick one device to use for the rest of my life, this would be it. It doesn't do EVERYTHING but it does do many things better than any other device I've seen. However, Petzl's new Reverso 3 may change my opinion. It is almost an identical device with a few small changes. Time will tell.

This thing is a beast. It gives me too much friction on the high friction mode. I could lead belay a fat, fat, nasty with this thing and not even feel them come off for a world class whipper. I think I just need to take off the first layer of finish so my 10.2mm rope slides easier through it. At any rate, this thing is world class and will last me a long, long time with very regular usage.

Muchas gracias, BD.

Light, versatile, bombproof...I feel a lot safer belaying a leader with one of these. Does what it's designed to do and it does it well. BD has a very straightforward video displaying proper use for belaying a second, which is a common concern from other reviews.

One interesting note: sometimes have trouble lowering a lighter climber in the gym on TR with stiff gym ropes.

You already know this is the device you want. It's the most versatile belay device on the market. Single or double rope with ease, auto-blocking, two friction modes, and you can anchor the ATC for belaying on multi pitch climbs. This device also allows for somewhat easy ascents with prusiking.

Best delay device I have yet found.

Smooth operation, good auto-blocking, fairly light. Works for ascension too.

Don't hesitate - just get it.

I've never had the opportunity to use its self locking mode, so have only ever used it as a normal belay device. Prefer the XP to be honest.

Better to use with skinnier ropes, and avoid the fat ones you often get at indoor walls etc. Don't really think you can use this comfortably with ropes 10-11mm in thickness.

I was a hold out using the older ATC for a long time. Then I decided to bite the bullet and step up to the ATC Guide. I have never looked back. It feeds rope great, it belays from above great, it rapps great, I love this and it is now the device i reach for, even when everything else (ATC, Toucan, Gri Gri, figure 8) is availble.

I've only used this ATC Guide a couple of times but it's so much smoother that any other belay device I've used. I haven't yet belayed off anchor but I'm going to learn how and then do it.

After 38 reviews and an average of 5 stars, there isn't much to say. I'll just make it 39. It works perfectly, very durable.

This is such a great ATC. I use it for everything: belaying, rapping, lead and regular belaying, top-rope belaying, and belaying on lead. The added friction is useful, but I usually stick with regular unless belaying someone heavy.

Although this is a great ATC, I will say that if you are not going to lead, the added functionality and price of $4 isn't worth it over the ATC-XP.

It has all features available, it's easy to use, cheaper than petzl(what isn't). Great for the gym, sport or trad. Medium and high friction modes, autolocking, you can use a cordelette or a carabinner to help you release the brake. You can belay two climbers on single ropes or one with half/twin ropes on virtually any useable rope diameter. You can rappel off the medium friction side, with a trickier setup you can also rappel with autolock.

This thing is a great design, no doubt. You know what it does. I just want to speak to the difference between this and the ATC XP when belaying a leader from below. The Guide's slots are a little narrower than the XP, so if you're using a fuzzy rope or a thicker rope then the XP will be easier to work with. The XP also has more teeth FYI. And the metal piece between each side of the device protrudes down further with the Guide, but I haven't figured out what the effects of that is. So if you're primarily gym climbing you might be better off with the ATC XP or ATC Sport. Then you can get a Guide if / when you start doing multi-pitch.

I had the reverso before getting this. After having a bad experience with the reverso while rappelling on a skinny rope I got this one. Has all the same features but work on skinny ropes as well.

The reviews from this site alone sold me on trying an ATC guide and it has found a place on my rack. You climbin' fools.

This belay device is great. It was great when i was a beginner and now that i am a little more experienced it keeps up. The anchor setup works really well and it locks off every time. My friend had a basic atc and went out and bought this one after he used it.

Ugg ... the grooves again. The v shape grooves are worthless. They just dig into your rope decreasing your rope life. Many people still use a regular atc to belay and descend and have never had a friction problem. Buy a Trango B52. The B52 design is hard to beat.

I like this device better than the XP because it seems to hold my little (10.2mm) rope better than the XP, and so far it feels a bit easier on my rope. Add to that the increased functionality for guiding, etc. and you have one awesome belay device!

Used it for single belays on The Subway in Zions.
Ideal for ropes below 10.5 mm
Works great in all 3 positions: Reg. friction for repelling, high friction for belay, and hanging auto block belay.

Black Diamond ATC Guide Used this at the gym the other night and I really enjoy the breaking system. It is a good straight forward piece of gear. BD does it best. The loop is good for top belays, and multi pitch climbs.

So I have to admit, I'm waiting to see how this levels out to the reverso. It might be a tough contest. Should be much better than old school ATC that I had and have abused to the max.

this is a glorious belay device.

This is all you need for top & bottom belaying

Simple, reliable, and versatile -- love this device! Especially good for leading trad...

This device is awesome it has awesome friction when on belay and rapell and even alows you to put it in guide mode and belay 2 people from above. It is definatly way more versatile than a grigri but still does not have the auto lock capabilities.

I got this one for belaying my partner when they are stuck resting on a difficult route in the gym. This way I don't have to hold the rope as tight with my basic Black Diamond belay / rapelle device.

just as easy to use as the atc-xp, i got the guide for the ability to use the self-locking set up in the future.

Very good design and works well on skinnier ropes. Only thing that I would change is the rough finish. They should anodize it like the regular ATC.

Use this all the time with my 10.5mm rope and friends 9.3mm rope. No problems at all.

I recently used this device on a week long climbing trip in North Carolina. I brought along my regular ATC just in case I wasn't happy with how the Guide performed, but I never even used the regular ATC because I liked the Guide just as much. I haven't used it in "guide mode," but in normal mode I did not notice any difference between the regular ATC and the Guide when using a 10.3mm diameter single rope and a pair of 9mm double ropes. I do not agree with the reviews/concerns from other users that the Guide was difficult to use with thicker ropes as I did not see any difference. To me the Guide is an obvious belay device choice since it works just as good as a regular ATC and can be used in the "guide mode," which I am eager to try out on my next climbing trip.

This is a nice device, although I have to agree with caleb that it's really ideal for ropes below 10.5 mm (great for twins or doubles). With beefier or stiffer ropes, it's really hard to dole out lot of rope quickly to a leader as he/she tries to clip gear for instance. For skinny ropes, it's great. For belaying directly off gear in guide mode it works very nicely as well. I tied a short loop of cord through the small hole and that way I can easily clip a 'biner and sling to it to give me the extra leverage to unlock the device to lower the second.

I’ve had a chance to use this device now on a few outings and with a few different diameter ropes. Here's what I've found. The XP-Guide is narrower than the ATC-XP, and therefore will not work as well with a 10.5mm rope or higher. A 10.5mm rope is a bit thick for the device. Belaying is okay with a 10.5, but laborious and can sometimes grab when you don't want it to, especially when trying to pay out a lot of slack quickly to the leader. In auto-locking mode to bring up the second a 10.5 takes a lot of effort to get through the device, and if your second is really climbing fast it's difficult to keep up.
However, because the Guide is a little narrower than the XP, it grabs skinnier ropes better. I think the sweet spot for the Guide exists in between 9.7mm and 10.3mm. With these diameters it works like a dream. Also, the enigmatic little hole for lowering the second does make lowering from the anchor a little easier, but for those who've used a Reverso, you can use the second locker the rope travels around to lower just as well. The additional hole does provide a little more leverage, so it is possible with the redirect to just lower your second by pulling on the sling with your hand if the climber is light, or can take a little weight off the rope by walking down the route or down climbing. (See the BD technical notice for lowering procedure) With a heavier climber, when you are using your body weight to lower, it takes a little getting used to. A little jerky at first and less sensitive than lowering with your hands "belay" style, but no worse than the Reverso. All in all, a good device.

The XTC Guide is a great device. I used it 10 times already. I didn't get to use it in guide mode. But, it was great to rappel with and super quick when I caught my climbing partner falling from about 75ft. The high friction mode truly is! I can't wait to get a skinnier rope to try it with, as my 10.5 is getting ready for retirement.

Excellent belay device. Consider this: even if not used for belaying two, one can use the dedicated loop to directly attach the device to a fixed anchor, so in case of a fall, you will not be dragged.... The ATC XP can't do this; however the Petzl Reverso is also capable of such functionality

Black Diamond ATC Guide. Great and reliable. Didn't run as smoothly with one of our thicker ropes, seemed to catch a little but with our newer ropes this guide is awesome!

There are lots of these types of devices out there and Black Diamond has come out with arguably the best one. It's super smooth, versatile and just works great. I really like it.

I have been using the Petzl Reverso for a few years, and I can honestly say that I like the ATC Guide better. The Black Diamond device locks more securely and releases easier thanks to it's specific release point. I wish you could get a carabiner through this hole, but I suppose it's smaller to keep people from accidentally setting it up wrong. The ATC Guide is a little heavier then the Reverso, but it's worth the trade off. You'll never see me on a multi-pitch route without this thing.

I love this ATC, it works great in all 3 positions: reg. friction for repelling, high friction for belay, and hanging auto block belay. I love the auto block!! It makes rope management SO much easier!! This is a Killer ATC!!

This is far and away the best ATC style belay device ever devised. easy to use and functional beyond belief. I could recommend it higher, especially if you're belaying from above.

The ATC Guide is a great belay device for bringing up the second on your multi pitch routes and is awesome when rappelling. However, I did find it difficult to use with a rope bigger than 10mm, especially when using it as a regular belay.

Great for belaying heavy climbers. Worked great, no hassles. Rappels smoothly.