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As you step up your climbing ability, you become less reliant upon projecting cords and more dependent on light-but-tough ropes for redpoint and flash attempts. The Beal Diablo Unicore 9.8mm Single Rope offers smooth running and quick clipping, but requires the attention of a vigilant belayer since its aggressive design may not brake as easily as gym ropes in an ATC. A force rating of just 8.2 kN means that during the rare lead fall, the Diablo absorbs shock with ease.

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very poor experience

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

After climbing on beal ropes for a while, I picked this one up. must have been a bad batch or something. one month in (between 10-12 days on) I noticed fraying. This was the fastest ive ever seen a rope fray. Could not see the core, but unsettling. In the past, Sterling has corrected premature fraying by replacing the rope for free. Beal did nothing. 6 months later, it turned into my TR rope for when I take others out and set up easy top ropes, and now 1 year later, it is retired. compared to my other ropes, that is extremely fast. Maybe Im just unlucky, but im not going with beal anymore.

Great rope!

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

The rope was nice and supple right out of the box, not like others I've tested. It's a bit fast on the belay device, as some reviewers have mentioned, but that hasn't been that big of an issue with me. Likewise with the dirt thing, although I've always used the plastic carpet that comes with it. No complaints her after six months or so of frequent use. All-around great rope.