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Gear Review

3 5

ultra locker

pros
feels super solid
no way this thing is accidentally opening


cons
not easy to open with one hand
gate is a little small for inserting rope when used with an ATC (especially when double rope repelling)

Responded on

this biner is not meant for rappeling or belaying. it is not rated HMS which is what belay niners are rated for! thats why its so small!

Responded on

Doesn't HMS refer more specifically to being rated for a munter hitch? Just out of curiosity, it there really any problem with using a non-HMS locking biner for belaying, as long as everything runs smoothly and the device brakes well? I have been using one of these as my primary belay 'biner for the past year or so because it works smoothly with my mega jul (a device which can be finicky in conjunction with some 'biners and different types of ropes). I also very much like to use an autolocker as my belay 'biner, as it's one of the few non-redundant and human-error prone parts of the system. Of course I still check every time to make sure it's actually locked.