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Gear Review

5 5

the desert island rock shoe

If you had to spend the rest of your life on a desert island (with unlimited crags) and could only bring one climbing shoe with you, this would be it.

I've had my Mythos for at least 6 years now. I'm on my second resole and it's still delamming before any of the stitching, laces, or anything else on the shoe has even begun to wear out. What's more, they are comfy enough for a half-day, five pitch climb (ok so I take them off between pitches to dull the sting, but they are still rock shoes, not bedroom slippers after all) and perform superbly on tiny edges. On those sketchy, committing smears they give me enough confidence to stand up for that next nubbin of a handhold. They excel in the gym as well. I don't like them in cracks as they are not quite sturdy enough for long periods of foot jamming (can you say screaming pain?).

Mine are in dire need of a good scrub but the stink keeps those undesirable gumbies at bay when I 'let 'em breathe' at the base of the crag.