Gear Review

3 5

skinny ropes only

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have friends who have both this and the BD guide device. After bouncing back and forth forever about what to buy for myself, I opted for petzl for a couple reasons: the wider opening for lowering ( which the newest BD now has), the orientation of the guide ring, its pretty light, and hey its petzl and its expensive and i dont own anything petzl. A deal came up and i sprang for it. Have used it for about 10 days in red rocks for multipitch climbing in addition to some light use for cragging and i'm hesitant to say i hate it, but i see no advantages to it. it's lighter -- by how much honestly? and in comparison to the 10 cams, lunch and water etc im carrying i dont think i notice. Also, the tubes on this thing are unbelievably narrow. I was stuck cranking a 9.8 petzl and 10.2 glider through this thing and even the 9.8 was horrific. I would not reccomend using anything other than half/twin ropes with this device for guide mode. gym ropes are next to impossible. Also, there isn't much wear yet, although a lot more than i expected; but the wear that is forming is clearly going to form some real sharp edges -- something i've noticed black diamond devices don't seem to develop.

Responded on

I've been using this device for nearly a full year and haven't had any problems with 10.2mm mammut rope. It could be the coating but just saying.

Responded on

maybe i should have clarified, but i meant a double rope setup on guide mode. A single rope on guide mode was extremely difficult as well at those diameters i found. maybe it was the carabiner/atc combo -- I was using a BD rocklock a pretty fat stock biner.