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Gear Review

5 5

great shoes for traditional climbing

These are great shoes. I mainly use them for cracks and granite and they are excellent. They provide all day comfort once broken in. I normally wear 9.5 but I size them down to 9. After I would say 10 to 12 routes the shoes will have broken in and they fit like they were custom made. Whenever I put them on or take them off I get a satisfying "vacuum suction" sound that tells me it is fits perfectly. But before they are broken in, after a few routes my heels start to hurt terribly. After they are broken in, it is literally all day comfort. I have seen people wear these for steep bouldering and I don't know how since they are way too loose after they are broken in.

Also, these shoes are not the most durable if you mainly climb cracks. Put some stealth paint on the top to prevent your toe from popping through the leather before the rubber does. But also the rubber will wear out quite fast in my experience. The worse is probably the glue that holds the top to the leather stops working and the top rubber starts to separate from the leather. I am not sure they can be resoled at that point but that's the tradeoff for one of the best shoes ever made is that they are not the most durable.

These are my go-to shoes for outdoor traditional climbing.