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Gear Review

3 5

Wish I had gone with the L... or Spirits

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

The design of these biners is super trick. They are as light as it gets and have 90% of the benefit of a keylock - there is a little nubbin at the end of the mono-wire gate that can catch a rope or finger - nothing compared to a real notch but not completely smooth like a keylock gate. At any rate, the design is great and they are the lightest draws I have ever seen, but the fact is the S is simply too small for smooth clips. If you are interested in ultralight quickdraws, I highly urge you to eat a few more grams and go with the L on the clipping side. Or get WC Heliums, which are even bigger and almost as light.

On a related note, however, I have become dubious of the value of ultralight sport draws. If you do lots of hard onsight attempts, then they are nice. For projects, though, they are pretty pointless. And once you get used to carrying a trad rack, the difference between 12 "normal" draws and 12 UL draws is pretty negligible.

The Petzl Spirit is bigger, tougher, and has a certain intangible perfection to the clip that no other draw, including the Ange L, can match for me. Unless you are really into hard sport onsight attempts, I suggest the Spirit as the ultimate quickdraw.