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Gear Review

5 5

Wilma, I'm going bowling!

I've been meaning to add some cams to my rack for quite a while, having been content to borrow Wild Country Friends, DMM 4CU and BD Camalot C4 cams.Now that I've come to purchase my own, I've opted for A1 quality. El Dragons are twin axle like the C4s, are of a newer design, cheaper and have an extendable sling, which is 9un)surprisingly handy.Plus, compared to the single axle ones, the heads don't rotate disconcertingly about the axle, and have a larger camming range apparently - but I don't care about that... I just want them to fit into cracks.I've used my No5 Dragon Cam quite a lot, it's saved me on a fall, held me securely while freaking out en route, and have even used it 3 times on a single pitch.I love them more than words can say!

Wilma, I'm going bowling!
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With the exception of the #6 they are not cheaper..

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These are definitely not cheaper than the c4s. A .5 c4 translates to a #1 dragon cam (the dragons are color coated with c4s which makes them nice doubles since they have the same range) and is $15 dollars cheaper. The c4s range from 5-15 dollars cheaper the whole way through the sizing... That being said, the dragons also have a significantly shorter stem to reduce weight which has pros/cons.

First, this makes them worse for reaching or deep placements.
Second, even though you think, "oh yea they're lighter, they're actually making up for the added weight of the metal fitting at the end of the cam that allows for the double sling." Check the weight specs and they come out pretty similarly, pretty much eliminating any weight savings of the shorter stem and instead only emphasizing the cons of more difficult placing. Nice cams, but C4s are same bang for less buck, in my opinion.

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edit those quotes: "Oh yea they're lighter,"

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Yes, the BD are cheaper, but that is because BD has moved manufacture to China... I'll pay a little more and send my money somewhere else.

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Commiserations... they were cheaper when I bought them, and now that I've climbed with them, I would've been happy to buy them even if they weren't (the longer, extendible slings are very useful!).

Weight saving is a definite advantage for me, because if you don't know precisely what gear you'll need, you end up carrying everything, and the weight savings add up.

As for shorter stems, I've never noticed/cared they are shorter, nor noticed any advantages/disadvantages/problems. I don't agree with the 'deeper placements' comment - cams go in parallel cracks, so placing them more deeply into a crack doesn't confer any additional advantage - it's placing them correctly that counts. Furthermore, you've got to be crapping your pants if you're wishing your cams had longer stems.

Finally, completely agree with @Ryan's comment - very happy that DMM develop and manufacture in-house and onsite, and support their local workers.