Gear Review

2 5

Versatile shoes with durability issues

I got these about six months ago; first climb with them I was SO pumped on the combo of solid edging and reasonably aggressive shape with a sole that could still smear. Still love all that, and the fact that they've got rubber basically everywhere, which suits my toe-drag heavy style. But after six months (with several lengthy rest periods) I'm about to blow through one of the straps!

The fit is also a bit weird, although that could just be my super-low-volume bony feet. I do really wish they had a third strap a la current Evolvs--there's a soft spot that pooches weirdly between the straps as is, and I don't get as much snugness through the arch as I'd like.

Maybe having to crank down the straps is why I had issues, but the design is poor--just a piece of rubber with velcro sewn directly onto it, it looks like. I'm looking at a new pair of shoes (or a janky repair) way too soon as a result. Bummed.