Underrated Route Killers.
The new Primes (SC and Lace up) have found their way into my regular rotation of climbing shoes, performing solidly on footwork intensive boulder problems, as well as long, technical face climbing.
Quick Background on reviewer - 10 years climbing experience, 6 years professional coaching experience. Climbing in the 5.13 range.
Shoe Pros -
- crazy amount of rubber coverage, it's almost like a lightweight rubber sock pointed forward. Any angle you can place your foot on the rock has the capability to stick well.
- semi-symmetrical last provides a good step of power across the first two toes. Edging and smearing are solid, and heel and toe hooking are baller.
- Nice construction; feels like it will last a lot of abuse.
Could be better -
- longer break in time than shoes with less rubber. First few sessions have these feeling tight and stiff. Break in to be comfortable and much softer, but the first few sessions are foot squeezy.
- Enough rubber coverage that it can make the foot sweat some on long routes.