Gear Review

5 5

Underrated Route Killers.

The new Primes (SC and Lace up) have found their way into my regular rotation of climbing shoes, performing solidly on footwork intensive boulder problems, as well as long, technical face climbing.

Quick Background on reviewer - 10 years climbing experience, 6 years professional coaching experience. Climbing in the 5.13 range.

Shoe Pros -

- crazy amount of rubber coverage, it's almost like a lightweight rubber sock pointed forward. Any angle you can place your foot on the rock has the capability to stick well.
- semi-symmetrical last provides a good step of power across the first two toes. Edging and smearing are solid, and heel and toe hooking are baller.
- Nice construction; feels like it will last a lot of abuse.

Could be better -

- longer break in time than shoes with less rubber. First few sessions have these feeling tight and stiff. Break in to be comfortable and much softer, but the first few sessions are foot squeezy.

- Enough rubber coverage that it can make the foot sweat some on long routes.

Responded on

Can you comment on sizing comparative to other shoes? Are they similar sizing to the Predators or closer the the Evo/Pontas which seem to run 1/2 - 1 size larger than the Predators for the same numerical size?

Also how are they wearing?

Responded on

Sizing - I went a 1/2 size up from the Pontas,which is also the exact same as the sizing I use on the Shamans (so a 9.5 Pontas and a 10 Prime both fit me about the exact same). About the same as a 41.5 Testarossa or Solution. (Street shoe size for me is 10.5/44 Euro).

After the first several of sessions breaking in, the upper+rubber def starting molding well to create a good space for the big toe knuckle.

Wear - still pretty new (only been using them for a few months), but construction seems solid. The rubber hasn't really worn down that much, but the shoe has softened up decently - (guess this also depends on personal preference for how soft you like your shoes).

Hope that helps.