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Gear Review

3 5

Ultralight and solid. With an issue

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Grab couple of these screw locks to trad or sport multi-pitch.

I use one to clove hitch myself and another to belay my second off an anchor. I prefer something bigger (e.g. Petzl Attach 3D or Mad Rock Tech HMS) as a belay binner due to a high friction between my ropes and DMM Shadow.

It's a solid ultralight binner with common ultralight binner issues - high friction and gets only one clove hitch. Also I wouldn't take it to alpine climb because it's too small to be handy when wearing gloves.

Gate action and screw lock is very smooth (like any other DMM binner).

For summer trad or sport multipitch climbs it's hard to get something better.

Updated on Tue Apr, 9th 2013 after approx 1 year of use. This binner paints rope badly. Do not use it for TR setup.

Responded on

Well, if your rope is dirty, especially if it has picked up sand, it WILL wear out a carabiner. Since DMM biners are both anodized and hot forged, they are as tough as they get, so ignore that "binner paints rope badly" comment folks.