Gear Review

5 5

Ultimate belay decive

The best and only belay device you'll ever need.
manual belay devices(as opposed to automatic) are a great teaching device for people wanting to learn how to belay correctly. ATC teaches you to pay close attention to the climber and several other good habits to develop while climbing.
ATC's are nice since you can choose to belay/rappel in high-friction or normal mode.
I almost had to start feeding my rope through the ATC during a few free(overhanging) rappels off arches in southern Utah. The weight of the rope underneath me was causing too much friction. Took my something like 2 minutes to descend 90 or so feet... I'll definitely remember to keep it in normal friction mode for rappelling next time.

All in all, the perfect belay device!

Responded on

How do you put it on normal friction. I have the same problem and really dislike using this to repel as it has way to much friction and and is not very smooth. At least the way I am using it I fell like i have to push the rope though. Great for belaying though.

Responded on

I think i figured it out. Just run it though the opposite way right?

Responded on

Yep, that's right. You just flip it around so the rope is running over the non-grooved side.
Definitely solves the slow rappelling problem.