Gear Review

5 5

The shoe for steep climbing!

Recently purchased a pair of these shoes and I have to say I'm impressed. I've worn the Miura Lace for years as a sport climbing shoe, and have loved them for their versatility (great edging, smearing, stick pockets well), but decided to try a more aggressive pair of shoes for steep sport routes. After a lot of searching trying on shoes and reading reviews, I went with the Testarossa's and have no regrets. The shoe is the most comfortable aggressive shoe (if you can believe that, but make no mistake, they are aggressively down-turned - think rubber talons), that I've seen. The lacing system allows you to really adjust the fit around your toes, and the toe box seems larger than on similar styles of aggressive shoes. I tried on the Solutions and just couldn't get the fit right - there was always some odd gap or hot spot/discomfort, and I prefer laces to velcro straps on my climbing shoes to dial in the fit. The heal on the Testarossa's also fit my narrow heal better. I wear a 44 in the Miura Lace and went with a 43.5 in the Testarossa's and the fit is perfect (my street shoe size is usually an 11 or 10.5 depending on the brand). One interesting thing I noticed in these shoes is that the edging is just as good if not better than with my Miura Lace, yet, because of the down-turn and focus of power on your big toes, you can really stick small features with confidence. The smearing is pretty good too for an aggressive, down-turned shoe. Lastly, the rubber is really sticky in my opinion. I've used the XSGrip on my Miura Lace, as well as Evolv TRAX rubber from resoles, and have noticed a difference with the XSGrip2. The rubber feels stickier to me than the regular XSGrip, and not as stiff, but not as conforming as Evolv's rubber. Durability-wise, time will tell how long they last, but the construction seems really high quality. The downside: the XSGrip2 rubber doesn't seem to be available anywhere as a resole option.