Gear Review

2 5

The screw locks open on their own!

The screw locks open on their own!

I love the idea of using steel carabiners for a master point when top roping. They can put up with the abuse of being possibly the most-used hardware in my kit and I don't have to worry as much about them getting damaged if I less-than-carefully drop them over the edge when setting up, etc. And of course, they're stronger than any other item in my system. Total overkill. They should be the last master point carabiners I ever buy.

But here's the rub. I set up my master point with them opposite and opposed, screw the locks down tight, and get climbing. More than once, I've found the screw locks completely undone by the time I reach the top of my first ascent (I mark my biners with nail polish, so I can instantly see if they're unlocked). I assume it's caused by the movement as I climb. Really not cool. I don't trust these and returned them. The D-shape also often causes the two to not lie in the best orientation. Shame. I ordered some oval Petzl Oxans with Triact-lock gates elsewhere.