Gear Review

2 5

Soo close to being awesome...

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

This jacket is so close to being awesome. Unfortunately, it falls short. The zipper at the top of the jacket is extremely annoying, when zipped all the way up.

If it was designed like the R1, buying this jacket would be a no brainer. Unfortunately, the zipper on this jacket is bigger, stiffer, does not curve off to the side of the mouth, and doesn't have a large enough fabric backing to protect your chin.

As a result, the zipper chafes your chin and it's size is obnoxious.

The hood could be a little tighter too. It's very slightly looser than the R1 - only noticable under a helmet (slightly more bunching).

Bummer. Hoping Patagonia gets this piece right, next year!

Responded on

Just have to say it zipper is totally a preference. I went in to backcountry and tried on about every technical fleece jacket with all my layers and found this to be my top choice. I really disliked the hood and zipper on the r1, its almost like it's made for someone with no chin,where as the piton is snug but not restricting. I have read other reviews that feel this way too. So go try these two one and see for yourself, Ill be buying it very soon

Responded on

What size did you get? How does it compare to the sizing of the R1?

Responded on

I wear a medium in both and am an athletic 5'10 165lbs with broad shoulders and a long torso.

They fit pretty similarly in the body. The R1 is significantly longer, however, and is meant to be tucked in. The zipper on the Piton is significantly larger and stiffer. When you bend over, the zipper bulges out about 6-8" and causes a deformation of the fit. Even if they were the same length, the Piton would come untucked more often, due to this deformation. The half-zip of the R1 works better for this reason.

The hood of the R1 is a much snugger fit, around the entire face. The Piton is too loosely cut and will let in cold air around the edges of the hood. This isn't a problem in casual environments, but in extreme environments, this could mean the difference between getting frostbite, and not getting frostbite. With both, you still need something for the nose and cheeks (I use a cut-down neoprene Serious Masque).

Overall, the Piton is a nice garment for a day-at-the-crag or around-town casual use. However, for extreme environments where you can't just bail due to cold weather, the R1 hoody is a better-designed garment. I have no clue why they didn't just design the Piton just like the R1, but with the thicker fabric and Windpro panels. It's really a shame.