Gear Review

3 5

Safe but Dangerous........?

This carabiner is both very good and very bad. It excels in single pich routes, but slows down long multi pitch climbs. With that said, I think BD made a very smart product. It eliminates cross loading completely, and really shines in regards to safety. Even though this piece of gear seems bomber it lacks speed and freedom of motion during handling. If youve been climbing for a while, and rely on a fast and efficient system in between pitches, or on belays and repells, this carabiner might slow you down. Clipping and unclipping frequently can turn into a chore, an if more than one harness loop is through the lower gate it can block the main gate from opening easily. This might seem like a minor defect, but it can have dangerous consequences that a normal locking carabiner wouldn't. I say this because I had an unfortunate experiance with this carabiner. During a multipitch route at a local crag this problem kept happening to me. Because I always load more than one harness loop into the lower gate, I contiuously struggled to open the main gate of this device. It became very irratating, and complicated my situation greatly. I was switching over from a lead to belay up my partner who would be cleaning. I clipped the biner onto two harness loops and locked the two loops through the lower gate securing them. Then i clippped my ATC in and finally tried to get the rope fed through. I had my hands full and because of my biners new polished surface, my ATC slipped out of the main gate and plummetted to the ground. I had to resort to alternate means of belay, and had to rap off with out a belay divice... Not fun. So ironically, this super "safe" device created a potentially life threatening senario for me, and put my partner in danger too. BUT KEEP IN MIND, if you only load one harness loop into the lower gate, the main gate will still open freely, making the overall useage much smoother. Any way, always remember to BE SAFE, BE CAREFUL, and CLIMB HARD!

Responded on

I understand what you're talking about, but it sounds like you're trying to blame a carabiner for you dropping your ATC. Slow down, and just run it through your belay loop. If you want a backup for your belay loop, get some 7mm Accessory cord and make a backup loop that follows your belay loop so you'll have redundancy.