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Gear Review

5 5


I love Italian climbing shoes!

Out of the box these things were awful... I wear a street size 10.5-11 US mens and got these in a 9.5. I had owned a pair of "Boostics," also from Scarpa, and I thought the similar sizing to be a mistake at first...

However, after a few sessions they stretched and are perfect now!

I have been developing a lot of boulder problems in the Western Sierra and they are holding up on the VERY sharp granite. I had the pleasure of jamming my feet into a crack yesterday and they performed well. They stick to micro-edges, smear comfortably, and have been great holding up to the abuse that developing causes.

In situations where moss wasn't cleaned before climbing newer routes, they still stuck to holds and safely got me to the top.

Also, they are SUPER comfortable now... Took a little while, but they're grrrrreat!

I will resole and order again from Scarpa as they remain one of my favorites. I say this shoe stands at the tip-top with the Sportiva Testerossa etc!

Thank you!

Responded on

So, after a short time these ended up falling apart on me pretty badly. They get to a certain point and de-laminate. The edge ripped away from the shoe, heals get SUPER SOFT and aren't great to begin with.

I prefer Sportiva to anything else on the market.