Gear Review

4 5

Overall very nice; some limitations compared to wired hexes

These shapes fit (and stick) easily in plenty of different cracks. I have yet to find any placements that fall between sizes, so the overlap is good.

Advantages of the dyneema slings vs. wired hexes:
* Color coded slings make it easier to identify individual sizes, especially when they're racked on a single biner
* No worries about wires getting kinked from running around corners
* Stem doesn't get in the way of placements
* Lighter (not sure how much this really matters; the heads are the heavy part)
* Less prone to walking (I usually extend beyond the attached sling, so using these doesn't typically cut down on the number of draws used)

Disadvantages:
* Can't use a stiff wire to position hexes in deep cracks
* Easier to lose hexes in tall, inward-flaring cracks (this happened to me once and it was a pain to fish the thing out)
* Slings degrade over time and need replacement
* Slings tangle easily if they're next to cams on your rack

Overall I prefer the Dyneema slings, and only occasionally miss the ability to use a wire stem to position a hex.