One of the Best Devices on the Market
- Familiarity: I've used it several times
This is an overall excellent belay device! One of my favorite things about it (also a surprise) is that it actually does give off lots of friction like the tubular belay devices with teeth. The thing that gives off the friction: the cam, which auto-blocks the rope when your partner falls. It gives off friction even when you're not holding or lowering a fallen climberI\t is also very light. If you want a light(ish) auto-blocking belay device for single pitch sport climbing, this is it! And the best thing, although it's obvious and expected, is that you don't have to learn another belay technique (duh!) Overall, this is an excellent belay device and I only have two complaints about it. You can't rappel using it (unless you're doing a single strand rappel) and you also can't use twin or half ropes with it (which I don't even do or want to do). Still a great belay device.