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Gear Review

2 5

Not impressed

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have long (size 15), narrow, low-volume feet. I've noticed edging is more of an issue with these shoes than others I've owned. I also feel like the rubber is maybe not as grippy as it could be. I've had a couple of slips in the gym that surprised me. But, I've only been climbing in them for a few weeks now and outside they seemed to perform fine. They're not as comfortable as my Evolv Defy's and I don't really seem to get any better performance out of them, although they are stiffer. A decent shoe, but gonna have to climb in them a bit longer before I have a definitive opinion on them. The nice thing is they're one of the few shoes that I could find in size 14 online. I put a hole in my other shoes the weekend before a big climbing trip. Ordered them on BC and had them 2 days later! As usual, BC gets props for that.

Edit: I was not impressed with them initially and they blew out in less than 3 months of climbing. So not very durable

Not impressed
Responded on

Erik, I been climbing Friction Climbing for over 20 year...I started in old Boreals, then bought a pair of Coyote...I've climbed in different shoes, but on Friction/Smearing Nothing tops 5.10 C4 Stealth Rubber!!! It sticks better the more you use them, slicker when new...but it my go to shoe for friction...It sound like you have a few problems, 1 long narrow feet...I have the Coyote Lace ups, might be a bite narrower which will help you with toe and other model Newton, Spire...But 5.10 runs a little wider in shoe box, than other brands like La Sportivia, Evlo, and I think Mad Rock is a bit skinnier! 2 Coyotes are designed more for friction,slab, smearing...not so much for Edging, too flexable, but should preform pretty well in easy-med gym climbs! 3 Looks like your not smearing your foot holds...use less of the very tip of toe and more on the bottom, you want to get as much botton sole rubber on your foot gripwither sides of shoe or tip! the front top shoe edge is not for support, step on foot grip with none of the front/side top of shoe, use the Bottom Front/Edges...sometimes you might even have front/side of shoe bend up to get the best Smear on foot hold, too get the Most Rubber on that placement...good luck...try using bottom to grip/smear foot placement!!! Wish you good Climbing!!!P.S. you might want a stiffer shoe if you only in gym?