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Gear Review

4 5

Nearly Perfect, with a caveat

I've been climbing in these for a few months now and they are a perfect trad shoe for me on granite and sandstone. My only complaint is you get rand tears and wear right where your foot cams in hand cracks. I was able to mitigate that with some seam grip on the sides to give them some more durability. I also had to replace the laces which were eventually chewed up by crack climbing. They edge really well, the rubber still looks new, and they are really comfortable (I sized them .5 above street shoe, all of my other Sportiva shoes I size down 1.5 sizes). This is the best trad shoe I have ever owned. The only technical shortcoming of these shoes is for very thin cracks which they won't fit into. For those I use Supermoccs.