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Gear Review

2 5

Highly Specific


I love almost everything arcteryx, but this harness is way off the mark for me.

A: Yes. Size up. I'm a medium in everything arcteryx (including their harnesses) and the medium is too small for me.
B: Arcteryx shaved a lot of weight off of this thing. Major casualties include two gear loops and the absence of a a chalk bag loop ... which is more than mildly irritating. I know this is designed to be outrageously light, but arcteryx used a silly piece of fabric across one of the leg loops for the sole purpose of putting their logo in it ... this could have easily be eliminated in favor of a chalk bag loop. This is almost a deal breaker for me. Perhaps that's silly. But adding another belt across your stomach for a chalk bag is just another thing and adds a "lot" of weight.

If you get the right size though ... the harness is very comfortable, very light, and very breathable.

Not for me though.

Responded on

First off, that's not a chalk bag loop you're used to, it's a haul loop.

Second, climbing your chalk bag to your harness is dead giveaway that you've never climbed a chimney or an OW. Red flag when picking a random partner in the Valley: chalk bag clipped to their "chalk bag loop"

Responded on

I'm familiar with the function of a haul loop. In my experience, Arcteryx's haul loops are barely that. Unlike other brands that have rated haul loops, arcteryx's (the one's I've seen) wouldn't stand up to even light use. I think you'd shred through them in a heartbeat on off width if anything was attched to it. So, for arcteryx, the haul loop is a chalk bag loop in my opinion. If I'm hauling with arcteryx I just clip/ tie into belay/front tie-in... Doesn't bother me. All my harnesses are arcteryx.

Clipping chalk at to your haul loop doesn't mean you haven't climbed off width. Ugh, nothing worse than approaching boulderers that arent wearing helmets and harnesses; total redflag that they've clearly never done an apline climb,right? Those sad sacks aren't fit to even look at a rope.

Responded on

I always thought they ditched the haul loop to make it more comfortable while wearing a pack. More of an alpine harness than a sport harness.

Responded on

I have a R320 which has the same plastic haul loop as the S220. It's fine for hauling a 10.2mm rope.

About the best way to attach your chalk bag... Use a 6mm cord as a chalk bag belt. This way you always have something to bail from if things don't go as planned. Plus you can look cool at the gym. Don't forget a couple carabiners and a prussik to wear around the gym too.