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Gear Review

4 5

Great Fit

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

My problem with most climbing shoes is the fit. I have a very wide toe box and squared-off toe profile. This is the only aggressive shoe I have ever tried that fit me. I have not climbed with them much yet, but I can vouch that they made some bouldering problems laughably easier than my old shoes. I actually had to go UP a half-size from my street shoes and my La Sportiva Mythoses and my toes are still curled plenty, whereas they are not really curled at all in the Mythos. The tongue gusset is split nearly to the toes, which makes these shoes very easy to get on and off. That's a good thing for an aggressive shoe that you don't want to walk around in. Also the velcro straps go closer to the toe than in other shoes, and there are 3 of them that go all the way across the shoe. This lets you control the volume of the shoe a lot more than with other designs (i.e. La Sportiva Solution). Overall, the versatile fit and edging/hooking performance are the biggest reasons to buy this shoe. I cannot comment on durability yet.