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Gear Review

2 5

Good but not confident

I want to like this 'biner. The offset creates a much larger gate opening which comes in handy. The auto-lock is very simple to operate one-handed and works smoothly, too easy and smooth in fact.

I used this biner as my belay locker for indoor climbs mostly. That was until one day as I went to lower my partner, I noticed the biner had unlocked itself and the grigri (which was on a rapide) had nearly come out of the carabiner. Luckily the rapide caught on the gate hook, had the Jake used a keylock design the grigri would have come completely loose.

I was anchored into a daisy chain, but not the end, a practice I no longer follow due to this incident. What happened was that the excess daisy chain must have caught the locking sleeve and rotated it so that the gate could open. Part of this was my poor technique, but it is also an issue with the auto-lock having no extra resistance to unlock (like a ball lock design or an auto-lock that needs to be pulled up/down before twisted).

After this incident I've switched over to a standard screw-lock design (petzl williams since that's what was at the gym that day) and have had no issues. I would not feel confident ever using this 'biner as a primary locker because I don't trust the auto-lock. I would say it's about halfway between a normal biner and a normal locker. As such, due to it's weight I never use it anymore but in a pinch would use it in a redundant setup with another biner (either locking or not).

Responded on

Update: It now appears that OP has begun offering (not sure if it will fully replace) a quick lock option that has a notch. This requires you to pull the locking sleeve down then twist to open, as opposed to just twisting. This seems to be a far safer design and addresses all the issues that I have mentioned above (just saw one at the local hiking shack today). Should be worth looking into because of all the other benefits of this locker.

Responded on

Yes - this is the 3-Stage Auto Locking (3 actions) OP Carabiner. They have had it on the market for some time now, and is always a safer option now available where 'more' risk assessment and management is required in your climbing.