Good boulder shoe. Some downsides.
- Gender: Male
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
I have had these shoes for a little over a year now. I prefer to really put a product through the loops before offering my opinion. And this is just that, my opinion. I will start at the front and work my way back. (good news first)
The front section of these shoes are amazing. The rubber was always top notch, from frigid January boulder days to the warmer months and ample time spent at the gym. Everything from edging to toe hooks was phenomenal. The only down side to the shoes was the rubber section on the toes. After a day or two of projecting some overhanging problems and really digging with the toe hooks the rubber started to separate. Weird enough it didn't ever seem to hinder the usefulness of the shoe. After a year the front section could use a re-sole. But I would give it 3-4 stars for durability minus the upper toe section. I tend to drag my feet a bit when flagging out and my big toe is poking out on both shoes. (this is after a year of hard climging indoor and outdoors)
The in and out action was easy to get used to and they wore in excellent. After a couple weeks or less the leather really formed to my feet. The elastic section still holds firm after a lot of wear.
The only downside to these shoes is a loose heel section. I have spoken with several others that use these shoes and the consensus is the same. Amazing front, poor execution in the heel. They are not the best for aggressive heel hooks and if you really crank on them they tend to slip. Keep in mind I wear my shoes VERY aggressive and even sizing down a half size more than I normally do (in other scarpa's.) I do love these shoes though overall. If and when scarpa makes a shoe with a smaller heel section they will be on my list.