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Gear Review

4 5

Get the Big Gun for Big Jobs

I recently purchased this harness for use during Big Wall climbing. Reading reviews about wall harnesses can be a little daunting especially when you don't have much experience aid climbing. I waited until I had about 20 aid pitches, and one major aid route (2 nights on the wall) under my belt before I purchased my first aid specific harness. After my first wall I had terrible "wall hips" that were bruised for day's after the climb, and I promised myself I would take strides to reduce this uncomfortable pain. So I practiced better hauling, and jugging techniques so that I wouldn't be constantly hanging in my crappy old harness until I had perfected my own systems. I believe that even if you have the biggest most plush wall harness out there (Yates Shield Harness) you will still experience "wall hips" if you're technique is bad.

Anyways like I was saying...after some practice I jumped in, and bought this harness. Once I received it I immediately loaded up every single gear loop with every last bit of gear I owned (which is wayyyyyyy to much) to see how this baby would sag once full loaded with a 3x rack + hauling gear. As with any harness you need to cinch it down tight to avoid having to 're-cinch' it a few pitches up, but you don't need to over tighten it to avoid harness sag. As for the multitude of gear loops I figured out a good system for myself.

We decided to climb Touchstone wall 5.8 C2 in a day without fixing, and my lead was the first few aid pitches. Immediately this harness began to show me why it stands apart from others. The 'Upper Tier' gear loop can be used to carry extra gear, but I feel like slings, and cams with snag to become a huge cluster. Instead I used these as my dedicated ladder/daisey clip in points...'Genius!' I thought to myself as I easily cruised up the first few pitches in an hour or 2. When waiting at the hanging belay's for my partner the harness felt like I was sitting in a Bosun chair (well not really, but it was real comfy), and I really new I was on the right track with this harness. The last thing the harness did to prove itself worthy was the upper free climbing pitches. All rated 5.8 to 5.10 (depending on your willingness, and level of psyche) the harness never felt clunky or bulky while free climbing.

All in all I would recommend this piece of equipment to any climber looking for a comfortable, versatile, and light weight aid/wall/multipitch harness. SEND IT!!