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Gear Review

5 5

Five Ten Team!!!

I got these shoes a couple of weeks ago, and these are me impressions so far:
Design wise, the rubber on the toes is much thinner than in the V10, which I thought was way too thick. This gives you much better feel when toe hooking, plus the small holes allows for better ventilation. The heel is great, I like that they added some rubber on the outer part, which the Dragons lacked and made heel hooking in some positions a bit painful and not very efficient. They are supper sensitive, very tiny edges on vertical walls too long make it a bit painful, but on the other hand make them amazing on overhangs, especially on small pockets. I used to have LaSportiva, but after trying Five Ten, I was hooked, the rubber has much more friction and lasts longer.
Sizing seems to be a bit of an issue in general. As a reference I wear a size 10US (EUR43 aprox.) in the Five Tean Teenie Guide (and pretty much all street shoes). In climbing shoes (all with a very snug fit for sport climbing and bouldering) I have worn: Five Ten VCs (new model) in 7,5US, LaSportiva Katana in 38 ½ EUR, LaSportiva Tesatarrossa and Venom in 39 ½ EUR, and Evolve Bandit in 8US (owned only 1 pair; rubber simply washed away in a bit over a month). I bought the Five Ten Team in 8US fearing that going a full size larger would be too much, and I must admit I was wrong, they are too small, I used those shoe stretchers but I think it would be better to get ½ size larger; I RECOMMEND A FULL SIZE LARGER THAN IN YOUR VCs!!!