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Gear Review

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Excellent lightweight belay biner with some caveats

This is a really innovative biner by Petzl. It gives us a really lightweight Munter-compatible locker with a nice smooth surface for the rope to run on a standard sport/toprope belay.

But it isn't perfect. It tends to turn around very easily, meaning you'll either crossroad it or run the rope through the skinny end, with lots of unwanted friction. This is easy to recognize and address as it happens. What's harder to address is the tendency for the biner to lay "sideways" against an alpine belay device while belaying up a second, creating a ton of friction, a lot of stress on your anchor, and a general PITA. Add in some rope drag from a wandering route, and you've got yourself a recipe for some very sore hands.

But overall this biner is a huge improvement. Lightweight is the only way to go.

Responded on

I have found it to lay sideways in my reverso4 as well.

Responded on

Following up with a few rock and ice seasons of use on this biner, I can say that the "laying flat" issue doesn't bother me much anymore (though I haven't found a solution to it), but I've also found that the screw lock ices up much more often than most of my other lockers. Not sure why that is - it may get more buildup from ice shearing off of the ropes as they go through my belay tube right next to it, but on cold days I need to give it a couple of nice warm breaths every time I want to open or close it - a real pain when it's on my belay loop!