Gear Review

4 5

Comfortable, but not technical at all

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I little background before I break them down. I'm an average sport climber, don't go outdoor climbing too much. I wear size 8 in street shoes and these fit perfect after breaking in at 38.5.
I generally like these shoes so I'll go over the pros first:
These are probably the most comfortable climbing shoes out there. They are extremely soft (more on that later) and I have no problems walking around in these. They break in a TON, if you could measure breaking in by weight of course, so make sure you get these real tight. They are pretty narrow as well, great for crack climbing.

Now the cons:
They are not technical at all. When new they were pretty versatile. But once they break in they get real soft to the point of being sloppy. Its not the sizing either, my toes bump right into the end of the shoe perfectly. At this point these are pretty much only special purpose shoes, for slab or crack climbing or even long climbs because they are extremely comfortable. La Sportiva rates these as Edge shoes, which is utterly silly because these shoes can't grab any edge once broken in.
Don't get me wrong, I still love em' to death, which is why I gave it 4 stars. But don't these if you're expecting a good all around shoe.