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Gear Review

3 5

Comfort, performance, perfect (fragile)

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Edit: I had to dock two stars, I've been through two pairs now and both failed in the same spot (split the material right behind the rand) If scarpa figures that out then they will have a winner, until then I've got to go elsewhere.

Fit: As stated these are pure Scarpa (which is perfect for me)wide toe box, narrow heel, great fit.
Break-in:I bought these on a Thursday evening and climbed upper Exum on Saturday. Friday was spent in the car so almost no break-in happened. Despite that these shoes were comfortable. I did develop one blister under the ball of my foot on the descent but I don't think I laced up tight enough.
Smearing: These are very sticky when dry, when wet (we got sprinkled on a little) they will lose more traction than a pure climbing shoe but that's expected given the extra durability of the sole.
Edging: Shockingly good on these. They've put the eva in the right spots and at the right density, I couldn't beleive how good they held an edge.
Running/hiking: The extra padding under the heel that tapers out to nothing under the toe (smart design) means these hike really well.
Overall: I'm really, really happy, if they fit your feet then at $100 these really don't have much competition as far as I can tell.

Had to come back and edit my review due to questionable durability. I'm not taking a star yet because I want to return and get a second pair and see but these shoes are failing in several places way to early. I'll try again and see if I just got a bad egg.

Responded on

Ben, I was considering getting these for up coming trip to climb the g
Grand. How did they do on the long approach hike both up and down?

Responded on

As a follow up...I got a pair. Fit my med wide feet well, despite 1/2 size upsizing for long slog comfort. Hiked and ran the stairs at local college stadium with no issues, and took them bouldering at the gym and was comfortable on V1 problems...so far so good.

Responded on

Follow up to my followup.....climbed the upper Exum Ridge last week on the Grand...these shoes were perfect. Comfortable on the hike up/down, and climbed beautifully. Never slipped, once. Good grip on rock and dirt. These are definitely my new approach, and easy 5th class climbing shoe.