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Gear Review

5 5

Best of the best

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have tried on every aggressive shoe model made my five ten, and most aggressive shoe models made by Sportiva, literally for than 10 pairs of shoes, and I actually spent time climbing in a few of them, and these were the ONLY shoes that were comfortable on my feet. I have somewhat wide feet with longer toes (slight mortons), and I had almost given up hope of ever finding a pair of comfortable shoes for those hard, steep progressive sport routes and bouldering problems. The Miura's, no matter what size I used, were extremely painful on my toes. Every pair of five tens that I tried on (Hornets, Quantums, Dragons) had a WAAAY too deep heel cup and a painful toe box, but the Katana's got it just right. They fit super snug but with almost no pain in the toes. The heel cup sucks up my heel just right. The down turn is not too aggressive on the Katana's, but so far they have more than done the job on the roof problems that I have been working on where aggressiveness is the name of the game. Edging is a dream. The best thing is that I can hook my toes into the small positive holds and pull my body unto the wall, allowing my arms to rest. Lastly, these shoes just look cool and feel so nice. The way Sportiva lines their shoes and sows in the tongues makes for such a comfortable experience.