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Gear Review

3 5

Beautiful, but imperfect

This carabiner has the expert craftsmanship I've come to expect from Black Diamond. I bought it specifically to rack my stoppers on, as I don't like the standard Ovalwire and wanted a keylock with a big basket.

Pros: Pretty big, square basket. Distinctive (and beautiful IMO) color that makes it easy to ID. Keylock means no snags

Cons: Weak gate spring so it opens accidentally sometimes. Heavy. About as expensive as non-lockers get. Lower basket is not that much bigger than a positron.

Overall, not a bad carabiner, and probably super nice on the bolt end of sport draws (its intended use). That said, you can do better for the dough.


Disclaimer: I only own one of these, which means it is possible (though unlikely) that the weak gate spring is an isolated issue.

Responded on

Racking wires is exactly what I want this biner for. I also dislike oval biners because when they're on your harness you can't tell easily if they're the right way up or not - annoying! Would you recommend it for racking or have you found something better?

Responded on

its pretty great for racking wires, i typically carry about 16, the 7-8 largest on this and the smallest ones on a nitron. its a system I like, but I've never seen anyone else climb with it.

Responded on

Yes, the gate spring is weak. I bought one for racking wires, but I wouldn't recommend it for that purpose, due to the weak gate and narrow lower basket. I've switched to a DMM Ultra O instead.