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Gear Review

4 5


I've been out of climbing for a while. Back in the day I used to climb in Five Ten Dragons and Boreal Matrix's, both shoe sized aggressively tight. It was surreal to me to have a shoe that I could pull hard on 10d/11a in the gym and not have to slip them off as soon as I hit the ground. The upper is super soft and stretches nicely. The rubber grips, well like stealth rubber always does, solidly. I tried to go cheap at first and bough a pair of Evolv's before this but the rubber just wasn't up to what I have grown used to with Five Ten and I quickly snatched these up.

Now the bad:
-stink, these shoes do not breath at all, and your feet will SWEAT!! I use cedar blocks in them to help afterwards, but they are still not allowed inside my climbing bag (I use the water bottle pocket on the outside for them)
-although exceedingly comfortable, I wish I had sized just a hlaf size down, after 2 months of 3-4 day a week gym climbing the rubber around the crease between my tows and top of my foot is starting to pull away, I think due to the ammount of pressure put on the spot when i climb
-the laces are WAY to long, both the regular and elastic are SUPER long. I got around this by cutting the elastics and burning the ends together about 2 inches above where the are tight on my foot, this way i can get in and out easily, but am not worried about stepping on my laces.

Overall, I love these shoes, they have there foibles for sure, but the comfort combined with the sweet rubber really make them my fave all around shoe.

Responded on

oh and one more thing, I have the most ridiculously narrow heels in the world, and they are snug as a bug in a rug in these.

Responded on

Thanks for the review! It has been helpful. I too have narrow heels and a problem with shoes slipping or pinching. I tried on this shoe and found it to be very comfortable in the store. No heel issues. However, the toe box was a bit snug at my street shoe size. Should I suck up and size down a 1/2 size to allow for stretching?
Have been borrowing a pair of LS Mythos but need to take the plunge soon.
Also, have you had them resoled? I saw your mention about the rubber pulling away. Do you think this is a flaw in the shoe (has it happened more than once)?

Responded on

those shoes stretch a lot. i'd recommend to size down