Gear Review

5 5

Awesome lockers.

After much research, I purchased some of these to replace my heavy, bulky Petzl Attache lockers. First off, I would be lying if I said their totally badass design didn't influence my purchase. Now, on to reviewing...

Strength-wise they are on-par with the Attaches, give or take a kilonewton. However, they are almost half the weight. The specs really don't give Mammut enough credit for how light these are. At 58g (verified), they are lighter than many of my non-locking carabiners. I love watching the stunned expressions on my friends' faces when they feel how nutty light they are.

Both the nose and carabiner body are significantly narrower than on the Attache. I found this made them easier to clip, especially when clipping anchor chains on sport routes. The gate requires more force to open than the Attaches, but is easy to hold open, and snaps shut sharply when released. It does not chafe against the nose at all, even after use and cross-loading (which is difficult to do with the carabiner shape). Operating the locking sheath remains silky smooth, even after repeated use at dusty crags.

The only downside? The gate opening is pathetically small... about 1cm less than the Attaches. However, for racking slings or pulleys, tying knots, or building anchors, it is plenty wide enough.

Responded on

Agreed, they're quite ridiculously light! I bought 5 of these from eBay last year and I wish I'd bought 5 more. The only negative I can think of is the angle of the keylock nose, together with the relatively narrow gate opening makes it slightly trickier to unclip than a 'normal' size HMS. Overall though, an excellent and versatile design.
To clear up any confusion, they were made by DMM of Llanberis, Wales, for Mammut. I have 20+ bionic pro crabs too and these are also very, very good (though expensive!)

Responded on

I took note of the comment about the gate opening: Since Attache has 20mm opening and if Mytholito is allegedly about 1cm less then this would make it about 10mm, i.e. next to impossible to use with ropes. Mammut's own site does not specify the gate opening at all.

Could other people please comment on the gate opening?