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Gear Review

5 5

Amazing Handling - Surprising durability

Intended use: 9.5mm is thin enough to be compact and a real weight saver, but thick enough to take abrasion and still last. I bought this as a 2nd rope with the intention of using at for belaying from above on harder single pitch trad, and at multipitch areas with long approaches and a walkoff.

Things I like:
+ This rope is silky and stiff - it feeds well, especially noticeable when belaying off the anchor at the top of a pitch. This also means it has lower friction through your protection system, allowing you to stretch pitches with less drag.
+ The bipattern weave (ARC) allows for quickly finding the midpoint, and knowing when you've passed it. Great for low-light rappels or measuring pitches.
+ The sheath is a one over one twill pattern (instead of the 2/2 found in almost all other ropes). Edelweiss calls this the HD cover, Maxim calls it the "glider". I've found that it reduces friction and noticeably improves wear.
+ Light weight and compact size is highly packable. This rope weighs 2lbs less than my 10.2. Thats like being able to carry an extra Liter of water.

Things I don't like
- Rope is difficult to rappel on with a regular ATC - A freehanging single rope rap would be dangerous without an extra friction device.
- Edelweiss packages their ropes awkwardly. Make sure to read the uncoiling instructions, or be prepared for a 30-45min knot.
- Center mark braiding is bumpy and uneven. This is not the case with other manufacturers Bipattern weaves. It seems that it will catch on the rock and abrade prematurely.

Overall, I'd highly recommend this as an all around rope for hard sport, multipitch, or belaying from above. You should get something much cheaper and more durable for toproping, and look into doubles/halves for climbs with long rappel descents.

Responded on

Great rope. Unlike the above poster, the midpoint pattern change has been perfectly smooth on my Edelweiss ropes (Energy ARC, Onsight ARC).

Responded on

Doubles or halves on long rappels are even thinner and have less friction. I've now started both wearing belay gloves as well as using a backup prussic below my rappel device to make long multi pitch rappels (like those found in Red Rock) more comfortable. That said the newer style ATCs are capable of providing adequate friction if used on the higher friction side.

This rope is holding up great for me, and I've found that now that i have a year climbing on it, its not nearly as slippery as it was out of the box. I've noticed the small "bumps" around the collor changing weave as well. My Mammut rope has the same thing (as have all my color changing ropes I've used) and I've found it useful to be able to tell when the 1/2 mark is passing without having to look at the rope. It has not worn there or proven to be an issue at all.