- Gender: Female
- Familiarity: I've used it several times
Perfect for a combination of bouldering and sport climbing. Also fits just as well as a lace-up shoe.
I wanted a more technical shoe for bouldering that could also be used for vertical climbs, and this shoe has the specs for both. The toe and the insole curve are just aggressive enough to encourage using your feet properly, but are not so downturned that they hinder edging and smearing.
Like everyone else has said, don't downsize for this shoe. I wear a 6.5-7 regular shoe, and the 6.5 Evolv has been perfect (although at first I could barely get my foot into it!). It is also a painful break-in. But it only took 2 days of climbing for them to stop hurting.
I have narrow feet, and almost had to buy lace-ups to get a good fit. No shoes that only have 2 velcro straps were snug enough. But the Shaman's three straps make a difference. The ability to take the shoes off between climbs means that they will continue to fit better than lace-up ones that you end up walking around in.