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Gear Review

4 5

Agressive fit with good all around performance

I looked at a lot of options before buying these shoes, it came down to either these or the La Sportiva Katana's. La Sportiva is tricky for me because I have a wider toe box, and I haven't ever seemed to feel comfortable in Evolvs. When I demo'd these I was pretty impressed - the heel fit and the cambered sole are fantastic for bouldering and technical sport climbing. I use them primarily for these purposes, and a little multi-pitch.

The edging is fantastic, the smearing is very good for a downturned shoe, and they provide a feeling of power in the toe area when you're barely able to get a toe in tiny foothold pockets. I personally prefer the Mystique rubber over the Onyx, it seems to provide both sensitivity along with confidence that my foot isn't going to slip. The 5.10 Quantum seems to be a very similar designed shoe but with laces.

I do wish they had a little more rubber on the toe, and not to sound petty, but did it have to be bright orange? Other than that they're pretty rad, glad I picked them up.