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Gear Review

4 5

A smart middle ground

  • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

I always hated lead belaying with a gri-gri. I've used the Smart several times in the gym and it seems like a good compromise between having a device that autolocks (though I wouldn't trust it to lock as I do a grigri) with the ease of use of an ATC (though not AS easy since the rope sometimes slips off the central groove and gets caught).

I'm interested in how it behaves when belaying someone from the top during multi-pitch climbs. Anyone used this device in that situation?

Responded on

It specifies that it isn't for multipitch due to its lack of autoblock mode. The double barreled version works just fine though.

Responded on

Good to know! My smrt is still in transit, slogging over ground shipping, so I haven't had a chance to read any of the specifications. BackCountry, why isn't this available online? Especially with technical gear like this, it would be good to read the intended use policy.

Responded on

Yeah I made the same mistake, not realizing that the single rope version couldn't be used for multipitch. Oh well... I'll keep it for sport and TR, and buy the Smart Alpine for Multipitch.... half the cost of a gri gri,lighter, and simplier.. thats a no brainer.