I'm looking at these and the Miura VS or XS. Right now I climb about 80% gym (V4-V5+ currently) and 20% bouldering. Any suggestions as to which is better for my needs? I have a hand-me-down pair of 39.5 Nagos and while they fit perfect are good, I'm ready to step it up. I'd take any input on sizing too (tried on 40 VS and they almost hurt but figure they'd stretch to a 40.5) Thanks!
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If you're mostly climbing in the Gym I'd go with a cheaper shoe. Gyms are notoriously hard on shoes. For bouldering I would go with the Miura VS as you'll appreciate the Velcro for taking shoes off between burns. However, in my opinon $170 is a lot to spend on a shoe that will be used 80% indoors. Check out the Mad Rock and Evolves...
For what its worth, I use the Katanas for outdoor trad /crack and the Miura Lace for outdoor multi-pitch sport and face climbing. I use the Miura VS for super steep boulder or face routes. I sized the Miura's in 39.5 and the Katanas at a 40. I wear a size 41.5 or 42 in street shoes.
I have an old pair of 5.10s I use in the gym
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i have both the miuras, lace and VS. 39 and 39.5 respectively. i have a shorter by normal width heel, and average food with, size 8 US street. if you're in the gym a lot i'd recommend the VS, i love them and the heel is shorter than most aggressive shoes. the muira lace though.. man those are some killer shoes. size em really tight and break them in over a month. you can wear them loose or tight with the laces and they edge so strong and precisely. dreamy shoe, and it can get pretty aggressive with toe work because it's fairly sensitive
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