I've been climbing in a gym for the last 4-5 month's and have used the boreal joker as my first climbing shoe. I'm looking to get something new which is more agressive to help me with the harder problems i'm now attempting. I pretty much exclusively climb boulder problems but occasionally put on the harness and do some sport climbing.
I'm in no way an expert in the sport and equipment so would appreciate it if people think that stepping up to the 5.10 anasazi vcs would go be a good choice for me and if not then could suggest some other shoes that would be better for me.
Matt (In The UK)
Assuming that it fits well, I have never found anyone who wasn't thrilled with their Anasazis and trying to make them last as long as possible. I'm thrilled with mine (the women's), and they're too small for me. Although these aren't the stiffest shoe around, they are fantastic for standing on little tiny edges while also being good for smearing. They're not built on a super-downturned last, so the foot remains in a fairly neutral position. The heel pocket is snug, so heel hooking is a breeze.
I would highly recommend trying them on somewhere before buying them! climbing shoe fit is such an important part of how shoes perform, and a poor fit will not only diminish the performance of the shoe, but probably be uncomfortable for you.
Hope that helps!
Get 5 climbers in a room and ask them about climbing shoes you will get 10 different answers. Most important, find a shoe that fits YOUR foot the best. As for brand/rubber, every climber claims his/her shoes are the best and the rubber is the stickiest. Here is some test data on rubber types(http://www.spadout.com/r/climbing-rubber-test/). With that said, these are great sport shoes. Some others to look at would be evolve pontas, la sportiva miura vs, five ten team 5.10.
Thanks for all your reply's guy's.
I actually went to my local store this evening and tried the anasazi on and decided to buy them. I'm usually a 8 in trainers but went with a 7 in the anasazi.
Just itching to get climbing now, but have to get through a boring day at work first LOL