Gear Question

I have decided to upgrade my 25 year old...

Posted on

I have decided to upgrade my 25 year old "light D" biners to wiregates. I am looking at the Hotwire or Oz. The Oz is 0.3 ounces lighter, so it is very tempting when I consider that I carry about 40 biners. But it is quite a bit smaller. The neutrino is off my list because it weighs the same as the new Hotwire but is about as small as the Oz.

I am an old trad climber, and do a fair amount of multi-pitch stuff. I am known to take some whippers. Are the ultralight Oz so small that they might break or do a lot of damage to the rope in multiple falls? Are they hard to clip with fatigued fingers? Do slings get bunched up and cause problems when clipped into multiple slings at belay stations?

I am also thinking of getting a 9.8mm or 10.0mm rope to replace my old 10.5mm. So keep this in mind with your response. Also any advice on my rope diameter decision?

Help the geezer.

Responded on

Get both. Both great...hotwire a bit easier to clip and a little less "fiddly". Hotwires and 10mm slings for "trad draws" and on my larger cams. Oz for free biners and for mid/small cams.