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Gear Question

For Denali in June, would you recommend...

Posted on

For Denali in June, would you recommend this or the Mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero Parka? If anyone has some experience on this, let me know what you think.

Responded on

I would recommend the MH Absolute Zero Parka. If you do a web search and check all the guiding companies' gear lists, you'll get a better idea as well. Besides the Absolute Zero Parka, check out: Rab Summit Batura Jkt, Marmot 8000 Meter, Feathered Friends Rock and Ice, TNF Himalayan. There are others that will fit the bill as well.

Added Later: You may not yet find this Down Jacket on current guide companies' Denali gear list as it is a new offering from MH.

Best Answer Responded on

ber. This is an extremely warm 850-fill down jacket that was designed essentially for Ueli Steck and his recent Himalayan exploits. He used it on Shishipangma and Everest last year and I am pretty confident that it would work well for you on Denali as well. Over 215grams of 850-fill down was used to insulate this jacket and it is one of the finest down jackets we have ever made. Enjoy!!

Responded on

Jeff and Jon, thanks for the advice.

Given that it is such a new jacket, I wasn't sure where it fit into the pantheon on down parkas already on the market and I didn't feel MH's website was too clear on that. I talked to MH customer service and the guy I talked to recommended the Absolute Zero for Denali still because the Nilas is more designed for Ueli's system (for people looking to move super quick and fast) than for an expedition-style climb like Denali.

It might be warm enough and guides might recommend it in the future, but I don't need to an early adapter when it comes to this, so I am going to go with the Absolute Zero just to be safe.

Responded on

If Jon Webb is correct about the 215 grams of down, I wouldn't trust it on Denali. My Montane Black Ice has 250 grams of fully baffled 800+ down and weighs in at 24oz total and is in the same league as a Montbell Permafrost parka. I wouldn't trust it at Denali. The Marmot Greenland has 300g of 800FP down, and the First Ascent Peak XV has about 340g of 850FP down. You're looking for margin of safety for cold temperatures which is why people recommend the 500+ gram fill Absolute Zero. A major guide service uses the First Ascent Peak XV on Denali. I would ask the guide service you're planning on using.

Responded on

452" 154lb Choose which size?

Responded on

Is this jacket good enough for town use when it's about -10 to -15 Celsius outside,without having to wear too much layers underneath?

Responded on

Are we sure that there's only 215g of down in this jacket? The total weight is 631g on MH's website. 215g of insulation seems low. I would expect it to have 250-300g.