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Gear Question

Are offset nuts only good for flaring...

Are offset nuts only good for flaring cracks and piton scars? I am a new leader trying to decide what nuts to get. I've narrowed my two options down to either a full set of Wallnuts from 1-11 or a set of Offset nuts from 7-11 with a set of Wallnuts from 1-6. Can the Offset nuts completely replace that range of Wallnuts on my rack?


Best Answer Responded on

Gear is a personal preference thing, so you'll surely get a lot of different answers depending on who you ask. For general use, I'd just get the Wallnuts, and later supplement with the Offset nuts. I actually find that I use smaller nuts more often, so your best bet might be getting the 11 Wallnuts, and later supplementing with the smaller Brass offset nuts for tricky thin placements.

Another option might be to lead on a friends rack, and see what works for you. This is really the fastest and cheapest way to learn your preferences if you can find someone to climb with.

Responded on

As a rule, you want to get as much of the nut surface in contact with the rock as possible. Offsets are great because they do this in flaring crack where a standard nut would only have a couple corners in contact.

In a non-flaring, crack, though, it's the opposite, and the offset isn't going to get as much contact as a standard nut.

Thus they each have their place. The right answer really depends on where and what you climb. FWIW, I use the larger BD non-offset nuts quite a bit in and around Boulder.

Having bought a couple sets and gained some experience, I recommend not buying sets at all. Rather, beg, borrow, and buy used (with a good inspection of course) a wide variety of passive pieces and then see what you like and don't like, what works, etc., then go out and buy what you've decided you need.

You don't want to be blindly carrying sets. Rather, you should be selecting individual passive pieces based on what you expect for the climb.