Gear Question

Anyone know how these leg loops fit compared...

Posted on

Anyone know how these leg loops fit compared to, say, the previous model BD Chaos harness? And how comfortable they are to hang in on trad days vs the Chaos?

How rigid is that rear gear loop? Would it sag much after clipping gear to it? It looks like its not the same construction as the regular gear loops on the side.

Responded on

Sorry I've never climbed in the chaos, but this is pretty comfy to hang in, not sure how they compare.

About the gear loop in the back though, it's much thinner and not rigid, but it's wide and not very tall, so it doesn't sag too much.

Responded on

I ended up buying this harness and here's what I found:

- The leg loops fit much tighter than on the older model (2009) orange-and-green Black Diamond Chaos, but this is accurately reflected in the size chart numbers on the Black Diamond website.
- Also on the BD website, there is an updated picture of the Focus with 4 normal gear loops; NOT the “mondo” gear loops pictured here on backcountry. The Focus harness I got has the normal gear loops. These gear loops are the same as on the new Flight/Siren and Momentum/Primrose harnesses. They are slightly different from the gear loops on the new Chaos and Ozone/Aura harnesses (because they don't have the little grey retention piece where the gear loop goes into the waist belt).
- The rear 5th gear loop is not rigid and does not have a plastic sheath like the other 4 gear loops. It is fairly taut however, so it doesn't sag much when loaded with gear. I can imagine it getting frayed with some use.
- The widths of both the waist belt and the leg loops are narrow – a little narrower than on the Momentum and much narrower than on my 2009 Chaos. The leg loops on the Focus are noticeably less comfortable to hang in.

I will keep this harness because it is the only 5-gear-loop harness that Black Diamond makes so far, and I like BD's rigid, straight gear loops. I hesitate to recommend it though – someone who wants a rear gear loop probably wants the harness for trad climbing, and this is a less-comfortable option. I wish they made a Kinetic-Core Construction harness with mondo gear loops, a rear gear loop, the narrow belay loop, and conical-shaped trak-fit legs.

Responded on

"I wish they made a Kinetic-Core Construction harness with mondo gear loops, a rear gear loop, the narrow belay loop, and conical-shaped trak-fit legs."

I couldn't have said it better myself. That is exactly what I want. cough cough ... BD, are you listening?